The Quest for The Perfect Flower: Evolution of a Pattern

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Happy May Day!

What better way to celebrate than with a rainbow of flowers?

I decided to make the “perfect” flower pattern.  I wanted it to look nice in one, two, or three colors, work up pretty quickly, and be easy enough for me to memorize the pattern.

It took me a few tries to get a pattern I love, but every flower I made along the way is pretty.  I think the progression is kind of cool.  I included separate directions for each flower.

Please let me know if you find any errors.  I tend to be a perfectionist.  If I proofread everything as well as I would like to, I would never get around to posting anything.

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I used Caron Simply Soft and an H (5.0 mm) hook throughout.  For the picots I did ch4, sl st into 4th ch from hook.  The center button on the “Mango” flower is 1/2″.  I used identical, 1″ diameter, buttons for all the other flowers.

#0: Mango (Orange)

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Worked following this free pattern: Crochet Kanzashi Flower by Naztazia

I started with this flower.  It is lovely, but I dislike how thick the middle is and that the round joins at the top of a petal.  I also prefer flowers with 6 petals.  And maybe the petals should be more interesting.

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#1: Persimmon

Goal: move the round join to the center of the flower, get rid of extra chains between the petals.

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  1. Working into a magic circle, ch5 (counts as dc, ch2,) (dc, ch2, dc) three times, dc, ch2, join with a sl stp to the 3rd ch of the starting ch5, ch3, sl st into the magic circle.  You have a wheel shape with 5 pairs of dc separated by 5 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd dc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st dc of the next pair.
  2. sl st into the magic circle between the two ch3s (count as dcs), ch3 (counts as a dc), work five petals as follows *5 dc up the dc, 5 dc in the ch2 space, 5 dc down the next dc, dc into the magic circle between the next pair of dc* On the last petal, instead of dc into the magic circle at the end, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the starting ch3, end, leaving a tail.
  3. with the tail you have conveniently located at the center of the flower, gather the tops of the five dcs you made into the magic circle on round 2, and pull tight.  Pull magic circle tight, sew button to center.

Conclusion: Goal accomplished!  Center is very thick.

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#2: Light Country Peach

Goal: Add a 6th petal, make the center thinner, dress up the petals.

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  1. in a magic circle, ch5 (counts as dc, ch2) *dc, dc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch5, ch3, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of dc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd dc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st dc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch3s (count as dcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch3: up the 1st dc (hdc2, dc4,) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc, picot, tc, dc2,) down the next dc (dc4, hdc,) sc into the magic circle between the dc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc.
  3. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion:  Well, it has six petals.  But, it’s still very thick where the petals meet and the whole flower is bunchier than I would like.

Also, I forgot my science background and made too many changes at once.

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#3: Soft Pink

Goal: Make the flower less bunchy and the center thinner (whoops, two changes again, but they kind of go together.)

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  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc, picot, tc, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc.
  3. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion: Better.  What if I skipped the picots?

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#4: Blackberry

Goal: backtrack to picot-less petals

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  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc.
  3. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion: Much nicer!  I wonder how rounded petals would look.

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#5: Orchid

Goal: backtrack to rounded petals

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  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc6) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc.
  3. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion: I think I like #4 better.  Let’s see how I can dress it up with a second color.

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#6: Lavender Blue, White

Goal: add a contrasting center layer

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Note: The first two rounds are worked the same as flower #4.

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc, end.  Note that you have made 6 sc into the center circle.  
  3. Join a contrasting color, with a sl st, to one of the sc.  Work *sc, ch3, sc* into that st.  Repeat for the other five sc, join with a sl st to starting sc, end.
  4. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion: Hmm.  Not quite what I wanted.  I’ll have to think about how I could do it better.

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#7: Soft Blue, White

Goal: add contrasting trim to the edges of the petals

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Note: The first two rounds are worked the same as flower #4.

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc, end.  Note that you have made 6 sc into the center circle.
  3. Join a contrasting color in the st before one of those sc, ch1, starting in the st to which you joined, *sc3tog (or invdec3) working up along the edge of the petal, sc7, work 2sc in each of the tc, sc7* repeat for the other petals, ending by sl st into the starting sc, leave a tail for sewing.
  4. Using a yarn needle, pull tail of edging color through each of the 6 sc3tog so you can tighten the center of the flower.
  5. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center

Conclusion: Very nice!  Maybe I should try some picots on the tips of the trim?

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#8: Robin’s Egg, White

Goal: Contrasting trim with picot tips.

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Note: The first two rounds are worked the same as flower #4.

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc, end.  Note that you have made 6 sc into the center circle.
  3. Join a contrasting color in the st before one of those sc, ch1, starting in the st to which you joined, *sc3tog (or invdec3) working up along the edge of the petal, sc7, 2sc in the 1st tc, picot, 2sc in the 2nd tc, sc7* repeat for the other petals, ending by sl st into the starting sc, leave a tail for sewing.
  4. Using a yarn needle, pull tail of edging color through each of the 6 sc3tog so you can tighten the center of the flower.
  5. pull magic circle tight, sew button to center.

Conclusion: This is really fun!

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#9: Soft Green, White

Goal: Make a contrasting center layer which I like better than #6.  I’m also going to try a ch1 between the tcs on the petals, just because.

IMG_6556

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc, ch1, tc, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc, end, leave a tail for sewing.  Note that you made 6sc into the center circle.
  3. Join contrast color with a sl st to one of the sc you made into the center circle, ch1, sc into the same st.  Sc into each of the other 5 center sc.  Join round with a sl st into the starting sl st.
  4. *ch2, dc, ch2, sl st into same st* in each of the six sc, join round with a sl st into the starting sc, end, leaving a tail for sewing.
  5. Use the tail to gather the center of the flower, pull everything tight, sew button to center.

Conclusion: I like this center much better than #6.  The ch1 on the petals doesn’t seem to make any noticeable difference.

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#10: Off White

Goal: Do everything (petal, trim with picots, center layer) together in one color

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Note: first three rounds worked the same as flower #8.

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc.  Note that you have made 6 sc into the center circle. 
  3.  sl st back 1st.  Ch1, starting in the same st, *sc3tog (or invdec3) working up along the edge of the petal, sc7, 2sc in the 1st tc, picot, 2sc in the 2nd tc, sc7* repeat for the other petals, ending by sl st into the starting sc3tog, leave a tail for sewing.  Note that you made six sc3tog.
  4. Ch1, sc into the same st.  Sc into each of the other 5 sc3tog.  Join round with a sl st into the starting sl st.
  5. *ch2, dc, ch2, sl st into same st* in each of the six sc, join round with a sl st into the starting sc, end, leaving a tail for sewing.
  6. Use the tail to gather the center of the flower, pull everything tight, sew button to center.

Conclusion: I think I might have found it: the perfect flower.

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#11: Sunshine, White, Light Country Peach

Goal: Make each component (petals, trim, center layer) in a different color

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Note: worked the same as #9, except joined new colors for the trim and center.

  1. in a magic circle, ch6 (counts as tc, ch2) *tc, tc, ch2* five times, join with a sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch6, ch4, sl st into magic circle, do not fully tighten circle.  You have a wheel shape with 6 pairs of tc separated by 6 ch2 spaces.  The petals will be done up the 2nd tc of a pair, across the ch2 space, and do the 1st tc of the next pair.
  2. ch1, sc into magic circle between the two ch4s (count as tcs).  Work six petals as follows, beginning with starting ch4: up the 1st tc (sc2, hdc2, dc2) in the ch2 space (dc2, tc2, dc2,) down the next tc (dc2, hdc2, sc2) sc into the magic circle between the tc pair.  On the last petal, instead of sc into the circle, join with a sl st to the starting sc, end.  Note that you have made 6 sc into the center circle.  
  3. Join a contrasting color in the st before one of those sc, ch1, starting in the st to which you joined, *sc3tog (or invdec3) working up along the edge of the petal, sc7, 2sc in the 1st tc, picot, 2sc in the 2nd tc, sc7* repeat for the other petals, ending by sl st into the starting sc, leave a tail for sewing.  Note that you have made 6 sc3tog.
  4. Join contrast color with a sl st to one of the sc3tog, ch1, sc into the same st.  Sc into each of the other 5 sc3tog.  Join round with a sl st into the starting sc.
  5. *ch2, dc, ch2, sl st into same st* in each of the six sc, join round with a sl st into the starting sl st, end, leaving a tail for sewing.
  6. Use the tail to gather the center of the flower, pull everything tight, sew button to center.

Conclusion:  Lovely!  I getting quite the daffodil vibe with these patterns and colors, probably influenced by the bunches of daffodils we have growing outside right now.

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#12: Gold

Goal: Turn it into a classic daffodil.  Just because.

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This pattern was more involved than the others, and I also felt like it was unique enough to consider it my own pattern.  I wrote it up separately.

One-Piece Crochet Daffodil Pattern

Note: You should be able to do a 5-petal version of any of the flowers by starting with round 1 from flower #1 and then doing five repetitions on the subsequent rounds.

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